Potatoes Essay Research Paper PLANTINGIt is possible

Potatoes Essay, Research Paper

PLANTING

It is possible to grow potatoes from true seeds produced in the flower of the potato plant, but home gardeners can obtain better results growing plants from whole tubers, called seed tubers, or from pieces of a tuber with a least one lateral bud or eye, called seed pieces. This practice is called vegetative propagation. For best production, seed tubers and seed pieces should weigh at least 1.5 ounces.

Unfortunately, plant parts are more likely to accumulate and harbor diseases, especially viruses, than are true seeds. To avoid this problem, commercial potato growers usually plant certified seed. Certified seed potatoes have been inspected by a certification agency at least twice during the growing season to ensure that any disease present is within strict tolerances. Home gardeners should also plant certified seed in their gardens. Potatoes from the supermarket may carry viral diseases or be treated with a sprout inhibitor that will prevent the tubers from germinating.

Many garden stores carry certified seed potatoes, so seed should not be difficult to find. You may have to consult a local Extension agent to find a source for some exotic varieties. Buy your seed in early spring to be sure you get what you need. You will need 8 to 10 pounds of seed potatoes for each 100 feet of row.

Potatoes germinate and emerge best when soil temperatures are more than 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Plant seed 4 to 5 inches deep in rows about 10 inches apart and 30 to 36 inches wide. Although potatoes can be planted on flat ground, it is better to form a hill up around the plant. Hills provide room for developing tubers to expand and prevent greening by the sun. Hilling is also important for drainage. Potato hills can be formed at planting time by mounding dirt up around the seed piece. Or they can be formed after the plants are up. It is best to hill within 4 weeks of planting.

Be sure to have good soil moisture at planting. If soil moisture is inadequate, lightly irrigate before planting to ensure rapid, early plant growth. Extremely wet soils, however, will increase the possibilities of seed piece rot.

ROTATION

Do not plant potatoes in the same area of the garden each year; it may predispose the crop to disease and insect problems.

IRRIGATION

Potatoes require good soil moisture at all stages of growth. An uneven water supply can influence the development of knobs or growth cracks on tubers. Potato plants do not use much water early of late in the season, but they need a lot of water when the foliage is fully developed (late June through July).

Potatoes have a relatively shallow, sparse root system. Plants take up most water from the top foot of soil. Irrigate when the soil in this region begins to dry. Check the soil at the plant root zone. If the soil looks and feels moist and forms a wet ball when squeezed by hand, soil moisture is adequate. If the soil forms a fragile ball when squeezed, apply a half inch of irrigation water. Dry, loose, crumbly or powdery soil at the root zone requires a 1-inch irrigation for coarse-textured soils to 2 inches for fine-textured soils. Heavier soils need furrow irrigation every 5 to 7 days, but more frequent irrigations may be necessary on sandy soils. Sprinkler-irrigated potatoes benefit from light, frequent (3 to 5 days) water applications, especially when temperatures are higher than 80 degrees Fahrenheit. For example, sprinkling a 500-square-foot area for 25 minutes will apply approximately 1 inch of irrigation water. To check the water application, place a measuring can made from a common tin can near the plants.

Once the plants begin to yellow and the lower leaves start dying, reduce the irrigation rate. Too much water late in the season may predispose the tubers to rot. The crop should be dried down to mature the tubers and to set the skin to reduce bruising. The vines should be dead for 2 to 3 weeks prior to harvest. Potatoes cured by withholding water late in the growing season will store better.

FERTILIZATION

Potatoes respond well to optimal levels of soil nutrients. Be careful not to over fertilize, especially with nitrogen (N). Excessive N will cause plants to produce too much foliage, and delay tuber growth. The best method to determine how much fertilizer to apply is to test the soil.

Broadcast fertilizer when forming hills prior to planting. Apply fertilizer uniformly across the garden area, and incorporate into the top 3 to 4 inches with a rake. Choose a balanced fertilizer, such as 5-10-10, 10-10-10, 16-20-0, or an organic form, such as compost. Potatoes will use about 0.38 pounds of N for every 100 square feet of garden space. If using 16-20-0, for example, the fertilizer contains 16 percent N, 20 percent phosphorous(P2O5) and 0 percent potassium (K2O). Therefore, for a 100 square foot area, apply 2.4 pounds (0.38 divided by 0.16=2.4) of material evenly. It is best to apply about half the fertilizer before planting. Apply the other half about late June. Use only thoroughly decomposed or composted sources of manure because fresh manure can increase common scab occurrence. If leaves begin to turn yellow before mid-season, add a small amount of N fertilizer to the side of the hill and incorporate with a rake or irrigation water.

PEST CONTROL

A number of weed,

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